Wednesday, June 9, 2010

Strolling a Suburb in Baltimore

On Saturday, Emily, Mukul and I drove to Baltimore to scout around. We stopped in the Hollins Market neighborhood when we saw this fruit and veg cart.
 The guys were very friendly and happy to pose for photos and we reciprocated by buying some fruit. They seemed to have their regulars as they stopped and knocked on peoples' doors. Once they'd moved on, we decided to keep walking around the area.
The neighborhood seemed initially imposing but we found that people were incredibly friendly and happy to have their photos taken, some even asking us to do so.
I wondered off around a corner and bumped into a local called Danny.
He was pretty well intoxicated but happy to chat, informing me that he'd been born and bred here and had seen the Beatles when he was 5 years old; their music was blasting out through the doorway.
 We had a discussion on religion and he pulled a prayer card from his wallet. I found the picture beautifully powerful and Danny carefully held it out while I snapped some photos.
 There were a few strange notices in windows or on walls. If anyone can tell me what the hell a King Syrup Sandwich is, I'd be interested, but I don't think I want to try one.
 I stopped to chat to a couple of guys who had lived in the same neighborhood for over 40 years and loved it. They pointed out this mural noting that the hands spelled the word LOVE. It was painted by Michael Owens using Sherwin Williams black paint. Images of its creation and the artist are here.
As we headed to the entrance of Hollins Market, we witnessed Danny on the other side of the street emerge from a liquor store and literally pour an eighth of bourbon down his throat.
 The consumption took no more than 15 seconds and I stood rooted watching in horrified awe. He picked up his boom box, and seeing us, strolled over to chat again, informing me of the birth dates of his children and the hospital he was born in. He then sauntered over to the market for lunch and I was compelled to follow.
The market, one long building running the length of the street, was built in 1838, and is the oldest existing public market building in the city of Baltimore. There was a large variety of meats, fish and vegetables as well as cooked food ready to go. Danny was down the bottom buying a hot dog and had a few more things to say before he departed for the last time, amazingly upright and relatively coherent. 
We strolled back to the car and then headed over to Greenmount Cemetery. 
 The chapel in the background was built in Gothic Revival style. Mukul and I wandered off but both of us had lost our creativity in taking photos. Poor Emily languished on a bench succumbing to the effects of her previous night's activities.
 Walking up to the mausoleum, we saw a work truck parked outside, but no one around. I tried the door and it opened, so we snuck inside. This is one of the finest mausoleums in Maryland and is of a Neoclassical and Art Deco design with granite columns, marble floors and bronze fittings.

I gasped when we saw these sacks and Mukul playing on my gullibility pretended to be shocked that bodies had been left lying on the floor. I had to prod them before I realized that they actually weren't cadavers but was too spooked to investigate their real contents.
 
Walking quietly, we investigated all three floors before leaving the dimly lit and silent building and closing the door behind us. Nearing the car, we met Emily hunched on her bench and decided to call it a day. After filling up with gas and dropping Emily and Mukul off at the car park, I turned Stuart around and we drove south to Rob's country retreat leaving the dust and decay of Baltimore behind.

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