Thursday, January 23, 2020

Battling History at the Mill

On a weekend that was lashed with sleet, rain and fearsome winds there seemed little chance of any outdoor activity so Saturday was spent stocking up on groceries and then snuggling on the sofa while watching DVDs, but Sunday couldn't be spent in the same lazy manner, and so with the gales still roaring around the house, I set out to explore a couple of indoor places that I'd passed on numerous occasions, but never ventured inside.
Battling down I81 was arduous, often needing to wrench the steering wheel back and forth to maintain driving in a straight line. The winds were relentless and, fortunately, folks were sensibly driving slower than usual. My first destination was the Virginia Museum of the Civil War in New Market, which focuses on the Battle of New Market, and sits on the battleground along with the preserved farm buildings which had been in the midst of the fight. A few others had also ventured out here and were quietly walking around. It was warm and cozy, the museum laid out really well so you literally flowed around the exhibit walls in the circular building.
 The Stained Slab Glass Mural Wall by Ami Shamir featuring aspects of the Civil War and names of the ten Virginia Military Institute cadets who died fighting it. The field had been plowed before the day's fight, making it so muddy that many cadets lost their boots, earning it the title, The Field of the Lost Shoes.
 From one of the windows I had a lovely view of the Knob, a mountain that has just been purchased, helped by the local community, and added to the George Washington National Forest. Wonderful news that this mountain will now always look the same and will never be tarnished by man made structures or deforestation.
A battle scene I could get right up close to, the detail on these men's faces was impressive.
The story behind the photos of the wall stayed with me. The Confederates were behind this stone wall at Marye's Heights, Fredericksburg, winning against the Union troops, many of whom were crying in pain, wounded on the field. One of the Confederate soldiers, Richard Kirkland, unable to bear the sounds any longer, grabbed water canteens and leaped over the wall to offer water to his wounded enemies. The firing stopped for an hour and a half while he tended the fallen men, then the fighting resumed. This 'Angel of Marye's Heights' died less than a year later at Chickamauga.
There was an impressive gun exhibit here, and I was particularly taken by the way all revolvers back then were issued in a wooden box, complete with accessories. This is a Colt Model 1849 Pocket Revolver.  I'd also never been aware that Abraham Lincoln had been so enthusiastic about machine guns. He insisted the government purchase 60 of these Wilson Agar hand cranked guns which fired 120 rounds a minute. It was referred to as the Coffee Mill gun, because of its looks and because it heated up so much during firing. This is one of the three that are known to remain today.
 A short distance down the road is the Bushong farm which got caught up in the battle of New Market. A great article about Sarah Bushong and the battle on her farm is here.
True to the period the house has been to restored, using many pieces that were donated, although the gold mirror, square table and clock in the corner did actually belong to the family.
On Sunday May 15 1864, the Confederate soldiers swarmed around the house, forming a line along the orchard fence. Battle commenced and the family took refuge in the cellar below, which had small windows above ground, so they could fearfully watch the fighting. Bullets pierced the doors and windows while soldiers fell outside, and soon these men took refuge inside the house, which then, along with other local homes, became a hospital. The family continued to live downstairs until they were able to return to their home upstairs once it was no longer needed as a hospital. I peered through the cellar windows trying to imagine the horrors of watching a battle right before my eyes, the flashes of bayonets and gunpowder sparking, the smell of blood and the men's cries. It must have been awful to be trapped down there, wondering if a bullet would rip through the walls at any moment, and then the ordeal of living below stairs while wounded men were tended upstairs, their pain piercing the floorboards.
There is a short walk across the battlefields to an overlook of the Shenandoah. Pushing forward against the winds I set off across the field.
 A memorial to Stacey Nadeau, who I read later, had been cherished as a dedicated member of staff for thirteen years here at the New Market Battlefield before succumbing to cancer in 2016. One of her big accomplishments was authoring a cookbook based on the original recipes from the Bushong Farm which continues to sell in the museum stores today. What a beautiful spot to be remembered. I stood looking down at the sparkling water and peaceful farms below me, wishing I had a hat to protect my poor throbbing ears from the blustering, battering gales, but also not wanting to leave just yet. The view, as are all views of this majestic river, was breathtaking. I stood a while longer and then reluctantly headed back to the car, thankfully, with the wind now behind me.
My next destination was another place I've often driven past but not visited. I knew it was a cultural heritage building so had a fair idea of what that meant but I thought a peek inside wouldn't hurt.
The Edinburg Mill is a towering white building that looms over Rte 11 on the outskirts of the small town. Because I knew it would contain historical artifacts I grabbed my camera and entered, assuming I'd be here for about 20 minutes. But within seconds of creaking on the wooden floors and looking around at every crammed corner I knew I'd underestimated my stay. I was then informed of  two more levels upstairs that insisted on a $3 donation to view. Why they don't just say it's a $3 charge, I don't know, because a donation should be voluntary and yet this is most definitely not implied. but in all fairness I can't see anyone trying to dodge this small fee, it's well worth it. I walked about, once again wrongly assuming, that I'd be seeing relics of days gone by that I'd seen many times before. Instead, I was engrossed, delighted, amused and intrigued with this wondrous museum. Aged wooden floors and narrow corridors led to rooms and cubby holes stuffed with memorabilia.
There were interactive maps and so many collections that I had to walk very slowly so nothing was missed. I'd never seen old voting artifacts like these before and was impressed with the amount of local antiquities that had been loving saved and were now in this huge old mill.
I was very interested in the stills and 'wanted' posters on display and further impressed to see a recipe for corn whiskey mash. Very tempted to try that out!
I'd never seen such a large collection of nursing and first aid badges and posters, the antique camera collection was amazing and I loved the story of Frank Hottel. There were many interesting collections and stories here, the description cards were written thoughtfully and often humorously so I really wanted to read them all, but to do that would have taken a whole day. This place is amazing and well worth a visit. It's incredible that such a small town has managed to accumulate such a wealth of history inside these beautifully restored walls, and the website is equally enthralling. There is also a restaurant adjoining the museum which I didn't have time to try out, but the food looked delicious. I see another trip here in the future.

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