Wednesday, April 20, 2016

Photographing the Presidents Heads

On Sunday I had a long drive down to Williamsburg for a photo shoot that a group from Richmond had set up. I was extremely fortunate to have got a spot as I had been checking my e-mails at the right time to nab a space, all of which filled up in less than an hour. There were 4 times, each one an hour apart and only 10 allowed in each slot. I got the first so had to meet the group at 2pm. I made sure I wasn't late. We were taking photos of huge president busts so I spent some time driving around country roads to see if I could peak a white head poking up over a fence or through some trees but to no avail. And later I discovered that these weren't visible at all from the road. Set far back on a private lot, they now belong to Howard Hankins who has saved them from being destroyed.
Once these huge heads sat in a place called Presidents Park in Williamsburg but when the tourists failed to flock to see them the park was closed in 2010 and Howard was called in to demolish them. They had once been appraised at about $100, 000 each and Howard couldn't bring himself to destroy them. So at his own cost he moved all 42 of them to here. there isn't one of Obama.
Driving up to them for the first time is an awe inspiring experience. Washington at the front was the first I recognized, towering above me as I pulled up in Stuart. Poor Lincoln was close by with a huge hole in the back of his head, received when Howard and his crew first started moving them; they had to create holes in the bust's heads so machinery could grab them to be hoisted on to flat bed trucks. At about 20 feet tall and each weighing around 20.000 pounds this was no mean feat.
They all stood close to each other with barely enough room to wiggle between them, JFK rubbing shoulders with Truman, and George H.W. Bush looking over the shoulder of Eisenhower. They were not in chronological order and it was fun to walk among them identifying them, which was relatively easy with some of them as the likenesses were so good, but there were others that had me and the others scratching our heads. Regardless, they were all superb and all with, I'm sure, particular identifications if we knew what to look for, but we simply didn't have the time.
We had about 40 minutes to take our photos before we had to leave and make way for the next group, and even with just 10 of us there we still had to be conscious of each others working space. I knuckled down and started focusing on my task, trying to get as many different perspectives as possible without missing any of the smaller details. I climbed the huge piles of earth piled up behind them and made use of tree trunks that were lying on the ground, balancing while trying to fiddle with the settings on my camera.
The sun was hot and dragonflies flitted back and forth, hovering over us and skimming over the water on the ground. There was a swampy area to the left of the busts and behind them, not really an ideal footing for concrete structures.
I thought this one in the center was James Buchanan and think that it was probably my favorite with his studious expression.
I found the backs of the busts just as interesting as the front, noting all the different hair styles. The only place on each of them that lacked detail was their backs, but not surprising really as the back of one jacket looks pretty much the same as another.
I'm not sure if that's Coolidge above in the middle but it seemed he was staring straight at me. The facial features were amazing on the busts and I was particularly impressed with the eyes. They were so lifelike from any angle, and sometimes almost seemed to be expressive.
Is that Franklin Roosevelt giving me the nod from the middle, and looking past his cousin Theodore?
I loved George W. Bush's tie. What superb detailing.
Mr Taft looking very masterful as he gazed over the fields.
We searched for identification on them but found none. I was fully expecting to see the names engraved in the lower back of the busts but we couldn't see any markings. Admittedly we didn't hunt for too long, time was of the essence. Was this wonderful bearded one above Garfield?
I wanted to wipe his nose, poor guy.
As I walked around the back I noticed a gaping hole in one of the busts. There was quite a lot of standing water here and some of the others were reluctant to paddle, unlike me, so I squelched over and stuck my camera inside. I was amazed to see such little metal structuring inside, I had assumed there would be a lot more than this and especially that it would look sturdier. My admiration for Howard grew as I realized what a huge task he had undertaken in moving these busts.
Once again I had to wade through some swampy water to get this shot, but it was worth it, knowing the others weren't prepared to do the same. I really wanted some perspectives that were different from the rest of the group. Every now and then there was an exclamation that there could be some form of unsavory wildlife lurking, such as ticks or snakes, but anyone who knows me would realize this wouldn't faze me in the slightest. It would have actually been pretty cool to see a black snake enjoying the sun, draped around a neck or curled on a shoulder.
Some have suffered more from the elements than others and the ground around a few is littered with chunks of cement and peels curling in the grass like flaked skin.
Our 'time up' was called so with a last shot of my two favorites, Buchanan and Washington, I called it a day. I fervently wished we'd had another hour at least so I could amble around and take my time photographing these wonders. I felt as though I'd just taken an exam, a rush of trying to do my best in a very short space of time. But looking at my images later I wasn't disappointed with my results, and if I don't get the opportunity to see these monuments again, at least I have a fair representation of them. But it was sad driving away, the dust from my wheels flying up and creating a haze as I peered in my mirror for a last look at these noble faces.
Hopefully Howard can raise the money to restore these, he likely has the ability and knowledge running a concrete company to help put them back together. He has a Facebook page with a GoFundMe link on it for folks to donate if they wish.
But for now, the heads rest in their quiet retreat, flanked by hillocks of dirt and machinery, looking sad and neglected but somehow still maintaining an impressive dignity as they await their fate.
Some articles about the heads are here;
http://www.smithsonianmag.com/travel/what-43-decaying-president-heads-looks-180958129/?no-ist

http://dcist.com/2015/06/zombie_ronald_reagan.php#photo-1

Here is an interesting link about the closing of Presidents Park. 

http://www.itemonline.com/news/adickes-wants-to-donate-statues-of-presidents-heads-to-city/article_26d6941c-d5f9-11e5-962a-376158dd3655.html

Thursday, April 14, 2016

Hiking up the Little Devils Stairs

Sunday was another attempt at finding and hiking the Little Devils Stairs. This time I was fully prepared and had directions on my GPS and also written down. Sandra and her two dogs, Tobit and Hope, were joining me, the weather was perfect for a hike, there was nothing going to mar this day.
Trundling along the tiny back roads I came across this gravestone and had to stop. Why on earth would somebody have their grave on the side of a road? There were no markings on the ground or railings around the plot, just a lone, solitary headstone. There must be a story behind it, but I had no time to inquire, a mountain was waiting.
The parking lot was unusually full when we arrived but I suppose on a gorgeous day like today, everyone must have been chomping at the bit to be outside. Last fall I had done some of this hike with another group but chosen to walk up the fire trail and then back down as I didn't feel I was fit enough for the rocky climb, but today I was ready, and it felt great. We got started and followed a path that led up a gentle incline for about a mile and then gave way to rocks and more rocks. For the rest of the ascent we would be crossing back and forth over Keyser Run which splashed and tumbled over huge boulders down through a gorge.
Sandra and Hope making one of the many crossings and a selfie before we started climbing seriously, although Hope's expression clearly says, "Do I really need to be in this photo?"
Spring was busting out all over as we climbed and rock hopped. Each side of the narrow path, where there was one, was lined with clumps of white and purple violets, dutchman;s breeches, bloodroot and fiddlehead ferns. There were plenty of other shoots and unfurling leaves that I couldn't identify but it was evident that Mother Nature was introducing many colorful and plentiful characters in the first act of this year's play.
We hopped and jumped, wobbled and balanced our way across the creek while Tobit seemed to instead bounce and spring his way across. He was always in front but continuously trekked back to ensure that we were still moving along at a steady pace behind him. Hope stayed close to Sandra and was often assisted at crossing over the larger tree trunks and higher rocks.
The gorge rose high above us like the walls of a cathedral and all the way we were accompanied by the bubbling and trickling gurgles of the water splashing and bubbling it's way down. I lost count of the numerous little waterfalls and pools that we jumped over or peered down onto.
 Sandra and Hope posing for a photo and Tobit romping in a pool. He managed to get in most of my photos and I have to admit at first I found it a little annoying, but very soon I liked it as he made an excellent reference point to show how big the boulders or waterfalls really were. But he would not sit still for a second so I struggled to capture a decent photo of him but this one turned out well. I never got one of little Hope but will remedy that on the next hike that she joins us on.
As we climbed higher up the gorge, we saw icicles still hanging from rock faces.It seemed strange to see ice on this sunny day, especially with so many plants and flowers sprouting up announcing spring was here, but we had to admit that the few times we stopped we could feel the cold in the air.
There were a few steep places to climb up and little Hope had to be assisted again, lifted up on to ledges and steps. Tobit just sprang and bounced his way up with such abundant energy that I was a little envious at how effortless he made the steep incline appear as I puffed along in his wake.
We did manage to keep him in one spot for a few seconds so I could get a photo of Sandra and her two woofers. I was amazed at capturing a shot with both dogs looking towards the camera, and very glad I got it in focus!
As we got near to the top of the gorge our grand finale was a 20ft waterfall that cascaded down to begin its descent into the rocky depths below. We were really happy we'd done this hike today, the many falls and rapids we'd admired must surely dwindle as the heat of summer increases. We had enjoyed the sound of bubbling and splashing for the whole duration of our ascent, it had been a glorious accompaniment.
The final climb was a path that led to the top of the mountain and the fire trail that we would follow down to the end of our hike. This last stretch was a killer for me, I'd much rather be rock scrambling than simply plodding up a hill. But we got there and were extremely happy to start finally descending.
There's only one outlook to enjoy on the way down and then a small cemetery that we pottered around. Small ancient headstones stood silent in the dried brown leaves of last year but spring was announcing her arrival here too, with clumps of daffodils and tulips, splashing yellow and scarlet around to brighten the little area. I took a photo of the headstone above, hand carved, likely by a family member.
We arrived at the parking lot, our cars the only ones left. Tobit posed for one more photo while waiting for treats from Sandra and then it was time to head home to rest tired feet. This was a wonderful hike, one I'll likely try to repeat in the fall, and there will be many more for me this summer. Sandra's in training for an upcoming Grand Canyon hike so we plan on some more strenuous trails, White Oak Canyon and Old Rag are likely to be on the agenda.  Happy Trails!